Montenero Val Cocchiara

Montenero Val Cocchiara, the name of the village, is nearly synonymous with the unique bread of a horse, the Pentro. These horses have galloped in the majestic spoon-shaped valley below Montenero (black mountain) for over 2,500 years. A summer rodeo entertained visitors every summer for 35 years, ceasing in 2006. Today, a wonderful way to immerse oneself in the natural beauty of the valley is to go horseback riding across the plain.
The valley, shaped like a spoon (val cocchiara), is a marshland (pantano) with the Zittola River traversing its length. The valley is about three miles long and as wide as a half mile at one end. It is home to abundant wildlife, including a large variety of butterflies and flowers. Migratory birds arrive from Africa across the Mediterranean Sea. In addition to the grazing horses and cows, there much more to see here. Bring your field guides for flora and fauna!
Original inhabitants settled along the pantano over a thousand years ago because of the great Abbey of Vincenzo al Volturno. The abbey needed a population to farm the land and to help protect it in case it was attacked, as it was by the Saracens in 881 CE. Now, Montenero sits on a hill with spectacular views over the valley and surrounding mountains offering it peace in its seclusion. The population peaked at 2,089 in 1901. As modernization approached the ancient agricultural town, the population dwindled to the present 480.
There are numerous activities in the village during the summer when the population doubles with those having ancestral roots arrive in the town, as well as sightseers. They enjoy walking along the medieval streets and visiting the prime architectural marvels. These sites include the Duke’s Palace that housed feudal lords, the Mannarelli Home, noted for its highly decorative carvings around its entrance, and the De Archangeles–Del Forno Palazzo which was built in 1691. One notices the ancient defensive planning for the village by the natural stone barriers and walls, particularly at the New Gate. There are even secret passageways to be used to escape if attacked by invaders or roaming bandits.
All visit the village’s Mother Church, Saint Maria of Loreto, which contains the relics of San Clemente, whose body arrived in 1776 from the catacombs of Saint Callisto in Rome. The festival for the patron saint commences annually on August 1st. The best artworks in Montenero can be seen in the churches. They include paintings, wooden sculptures, and elegant bronze and marble works. In the ornately carved choir loft of the mother church is an organ made in Naples in 1721. Adjacent to the church are two highlights: the bell tower and the multi-arched portico offering splendid views of the valley.
The festival of Saint Anthony is also important because he is the protector of animals. Animal husbandry was a major occupation for the villagers over the centuries. His festival on January 17th focuses around a large burning pyre in the main piazza where local food and beverage products are enjoyed into the night.
The local hangouts where people eat, drink, and chat are the bars, such as Caffe Lunik, Bar Madison, and the Roxy Bar, the later having the favorable location in the main piazza with a vista over the valley and mountains. The best cuisine is served at Casa Nuova Restaurant, serving specialized dishes and flavorful pizzas. Several fine home rentals and B&Bs are available.

What to See

• Church of San Nicola of Bari, pre-1500
• Saint Maria of Loreto (original 1535) and bell tower
• De Archangeles–Del Forno Palazzo, 1691
• Church of the Blessed Virgin of Carmel, 1701
• Duke’s Palazzo, 1743
• Mannarelli Home, 1735
• Mannarelli building, 1751
• Pantano della Zittola (Zittola River wetland)
• Stations of the Cross along Via Crucis (made by the Pontificia Fonderia Marinelli)
• Medieval Portanova (New Gate) and old municipal piazza.
• Mulino Museum: a restored functional mill with displays particularly relating to farming.

Important Dates

• January 17: Festival of Saint Anthony (San Andun), protector of animals.
• August 1:  Festival of the martyr San Clemente, the village’s patron saint.

Sources:

• DeMarco, M. (2020). Mundunur: A Mountain Village Under the Spell of South Italy. Italian edition (2022). Mundunur: Un Paese di Montagna Sotto L’incantesimo del Sud Italia. Santa Fe, NM: Via Media Publishing.
• DeMarco, M. (2024). To Give to the Light. Italian edition (2024), Dare alla Luce. Santa Fe, NM: Via Media Publishing.
• www.tuttitalia.it/molise/79-montenero-val-cocchiara/

March/April 2025